No Women Allowed: How Coffee Became the Guilty delight of German Women

Flavors - No Women Allowed: How Coffee Became the Guilty delight of German Women

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Coffee was brought to Germany in 1675 to the court at Brandenburg by a Dutch doctor. He was encouraged by Frederick William, the Calvinist ruler. Nearby this time, coffee houses started chance in other parts of Germany along with Hanover, Hambury, and Berlin. It didn't reach mass petition at first, and was mainly consumed by aristocrats. It didn't take root until the end of the 1700's among tasteless Germans, and even then they mostly drank it at home.

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Like most cultural and civil establishments, coffee houses were primarily frequented by men. In response, middle class women set up what were known as Kaffeekranzschen or coffee clubs, which were referred to by their husbands as Kaffeelkatch or coffee gossip. In 1777, Frederick the Great tried to safe German breweries and curb the company of foreign coffee suppliers. He questioned their patriotism by noting how disgusting it was that Germans were drinking coffee instead of beer and even said how many battles were won by German soldiers drinking beer. He even said that he can't trust soldiers who drink coffee instead of beer because they can't be "depended upon to feel hardship or to beat his enemies..." It was even prohibited to the working class based on the claim that it caused population to become sterile. All of this merely fueled the black shop trade of coffee. The situation was so crazy that coffee was completely banned, and there were even government appointed "coffee sniffers" whose job it was to track down illicit coffee roasting and drinking, even in secret residences. For his part though, Frederick the Great would drink up to eight cups in the morning, and a pot in the afternoon. He would make it with champagne and flavor it with a spoonful of mustard. eventually though, the silly ban on coffee was lifted.

Germany eventually took the lead in coffee consumption, but women still weren't allowed to go to cafes. They did any way had coffee in collective parks were there were gazebos and pavilions where families could bring their own coffee grounds. To interpret how seriously men kept women away from coffee, Bach (yes that Bach) composed the Coffee Cantata in 1734. It was a satire of the attempts of a stern father to keep his daughter from drinking coffee, forcing her to choose between her husband and coffee. She sang "Ah, how sweet coffee tastes - lovelier than a thousand kisses, sweeter far than muscatel wine"

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