Growing Organic Garlic

Flavors - Growing Organic Garlic

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There are two types of garlic; 'hard neck' and 'soft neck.'

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The upside to hard neck garlic is that it produces plumper cloves and has a broader collection than soft neck garlic.

The downside is that it is more difficult to keep from sprouting. It does not store as well as soft neck garlic varieties.

Soft neck garlic is an ideal selection for long-term storage. Soft neck varieties are a microscopic easier to grow but have a heap of tiny cloves in the center that are tedious to work with. We grow both types to get the best of both worlds...flavor and warehouse quality.

One other foremost consideration when planting garlic is your climate. Hard neck garlic types root quicker and are therefore good grown in northern climates. Soft neck types do good in areas with mild winters. Yet, with proper care, both types can grow successfully in either climate.

When To Plant

Planting garlic in the fall a few weeks before the ground freezes will allow a root ideas to originate but not supply sufficient time for the plant to emerge above the covering before winter and come to be damaged.

For spring planting, sow bulbs when soil temperature reaches 55 F. Garlic planted in the spring will grow Ok, but normally at a lesser rate than garlic that is planted in the fall, resulting in smaller bulb development.

Where To Plant

Garlic will tolerate partial shade but will achieve best in full sun

Preparing The Soil

For planting garlic, you want your soil to be in the range of pH 6.0 - 7.0.

Garlic grows well in deep, well-drained soil amended with composted manure and plentifulness of organic matter mixed in before planting.

Planting And Growing

From your bulbs, elect the large outer cloves for planting. Use the smaller cloves for immediate eating.

Separate the cloves from the bulb (this is called 'cracking') as close to planting time as possible; you don't want the root nodules to dry out.

With the root end facing down and points (or tops) up, plant to the depth of 1 to 2" below the covering for soft neck garlic and a minimum of 2" for hard neck garlic.

Space private cloves in rows 4- 6"apart with 1' between rows. Cover loosely with the recommended soil level.

Garlic does not like competition with other plants so weeding is imperative for proper bulb development. When flower buds appear, snip them off with scissors; the plant will put more vigor into bulb growth.

Garlic does not achieve well with repeated frosty and thawing, nor does it like ultimate temperatures. In colder regions, apply a thick layer of mulch during the winter and sacrifice the whole in the spring and summer. Mulch will safe the bulbs, prevent severe fluctuations in temperature, and help keep moisture levels even in the soil.

Chopped leaves or alfalfa hay are an exquisite mulch for garlic.

Using straw is not recommended; it is a host to the wheat curl mite which invades garlic. In wet climates, using any form of mulch is not advised; it may cause the ground to hold excess water.

Watering

Garlic prefers moist, even, well drained soil throughout the growing season with no additional watering the last few weeks before harvesting.

Over-watered garlic is prone to mold and will follow in bulbs that have poor retention quality.

Companion Planting & Rotation

Garlic has an antibiotic and anti-fungal blend called allicin. When an insect bites into the clove the blend is released acting as a natural pesticide.

Growing garlic next to lettuce and cabbage is beneficial, as garlic deters aphids and other tasteless pests.

Bad companions contain beans, peas and potatoes as the garlic tends to stunt their growth

Planting garlic after any onion house crop, as they are intimately linked and prone to the same problems, is not advised.

When To Harvest

Timing is critical when harvesting garlic.

Watch for when the lowest two or three leaves of hard neck varieties turn brown and when the tops of soft neck varieties fall over naturally; this is a good first indicator that your garlic is ready for harvest.

Before pulling up, check to be sure the bulbs are mature. Thought about brush aside the dirt colse to the sides of the bulb to feel if the bulbs are large and hard.

Lift bulbs out of the ground before the outer wrappers begin to tear and the skins on the cloves deteriorate. This results in poor warehouse quality. Harvesting too soon will sacrifice the size of your bulbs.

It is best to use a shovel to loosen the soil colse to the garlic bulb; a organery fork is more likely to pierce the bulbs. Once the bulb is loosened, lift the plant out by hand.Gently tap off excess dirt.

The garlic bulb can come to be sunburned and loose flavor if exposed to direct sunlight. It is a good idea to cover your bulbs or place them out of the sunlight while you are harvesting.

Common Challenges

Most diseases can commonly be prevented when planting garlic by avoiding over-watering and excess standing moisture. Watering the last few weeks before harvesting will shorten the life of your bulbs.

Storage

The storing process begins with curing your garlic. If cured and stored properly, a garlic bulb will keep 6-8 months.

Hang your bulbs out of direct light in bunches of 4-6. Be sure to allow air circulation to all sides of the bulbs. If an area with good ventilation is not available, use fans.

Optimum drying time is two weeks at 80 F. You will know your garlic is cured when the skin is dry and the necks are tight.

Before storing, clean garlic by trimming off the leaves (unless braiding) and roots and take off just the outer wrappers that are soiled. The outer wrapper is what protects the garlic and helps to verbalize freshness so be particular not to expose the cloves.

Leave 1" of the center stalk on hard neck varieties to make separating the cloves easier. elect only unbruised, cloves and store in a paper or mesh bag. Your garlic will keep in a cool, dark place between 60-65 F for some months.

Saving Bulbs

For your next garlic crop, save only fully matured, larger bulbs with plump cloves. Store your planting bulbs the same way you would your long-term warehouse garlic. (See Storage)

In warmer regions, hard neck garlic must be put through an artificial 'cold spell' by storing in a cool, dry location with good air circulation at 45-50 F for approximately 3 weeks before planting to induce sprouting.

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